What you really need to know about acne and how we can treat it

This informal CPD article ‘What you really need to know about acne and how we can treat it’ was provided by Dermapure, who inspire skincare professionals into realising their business potential by blending unparalleled brands with an exceptional approach to customer care.

Acne is the most common skin disorder worldwide and according to some studies can affect up to 80% of us at some point in our lives. It will generally develop at any age after puberty, when the hormones change, causing hair and skin to become oilier. It can affect the areas of the body with more sebaceous glands, such as the face, chest, and back. Currently, there is no known way to prevent acne and dermatologists say that patients will discontinue their treatments/products if they do not see an improvement within 4 weeks.

It is a chronic inflammatory disorder affecting the pilo sebaceous gland, and is characterised in grades from 1 to 4. Grade 1 being the mildest up to grade 4 which is the most severe affecting the chest and back as well as the face, therefore medical advice will be needed at this stage.

How acne is formed within the skin

Sebum (oil) is produced in the skin and is needed as a protective barrier to prevent water evaporating. However, if someone has an over production of sebum it can become trapped in the hair follicle and become a breeding ground for bacteria. The bacteria that causes acne is called propionibacterium and is commonly referred to as P acne bacteria. The sebum becomes a fuel for the p acnes bacteria which breeds and increases creating the inflammation within the follicle where infection sets in resulting in a pustule or papule. However, p acnes bacteria cannot thrive where there is oxygen, therefore products containing ingredients that increase oxygen within the cells are paramount to treating acne.

Papules and pustules are grades 2-3 acne and can be more superficial, whereas grades 3 – 4 acne will consist of a combination of blackheads, whiteheads, papules, pustules and then the lumps deeper in the skin known as nodules and cysts.

The most common causes of acne are:

• Hormones
• Poor Hygiene
• Stress
• Medication
• Cosmetics
• Some foods can also contribute to acne the most common being dairy.

Treatment

To be successful in treating acne, it is best to use products that contain ingredients such as alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, retinols and some Vitamins. AHAs – Alpha Hydroxy acids: Glycolic acid- derived from sugar cane is an effective exfoliator that smooths the surface of the skin, it increases cell turnover and releases blackheads.

Lactic acid – derivative of soured milk, a gentle exfoliator that also hydrates and brightens the skin.

Mandelic acid – derivative of bitter almonds, exfoliates and has anti-bacterial qualities.

BHAs – Beta Hydroxy acids:

Salicylic acid – derivative of willow bark, a slightly more aggressive exfoliator that can penetrate into the hair follicle, expels any congestion and reduces the inflammation in the sebaceous gland.

Retinol – derivative of Vitamin A A medically proven treatment for acne that is an effective surface exfoliator and also increases collagen and elastin in the dermis.

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) – increases the oxygen and blood flow to the skin reducing the production of sebum and infusing the cells with oxygen so that the p acne bacteria cannot thrive. Using a combination of these key ingredients to treat acne, will help to effectively exfoliate the surface of the skin, release any dirt, debris and oil that has built up in the superficial layers, reducing inflammation within the sebaceous gland therefore reducing the growth of the p acne bacteria and resulting in a clearer complexion.

Points to consider

When creating a treatment plan for a client with acne, there are a few factors practitioners need to take into consideration so they will need to conduct a full consultation with the client.

Key points:

• How long has the client suffered with acne?
• What products have they used previously and are currently using?
• Are they taking any medication or been to see their GP?
• Is the acne just on the face or other areas of the body?

Once the relevant information has been obtained, the practitioner will then recommend a bespoke treatment and product plan for the individual to address their concerns. As one treatment plan does not necessarily work for all acne sufferers, a combination of products and treatments will be recommended for each individual’s needs.

The following key points will need to be addressed:

• Exfoliation – to remove a build-up of dead skin cells
• Hydrate and strengthen the skin
• Treat the bacteria – using products containing AHA’s, BHA’s and Retinol
• Reduce the oil production – Niacinamide and Salicylic Acid
• Protect the skin

Once a treatment plan and products have been recommended, the client will need to commit to using the products at home as well as undergo regular chemical peel treatments to effectively reduce their outbreaks and balance their skin.

We hope this article was helpful. For more information from Dermapure, please visit their CPD Member Directory page. Alternatively, you can go to the CPD Industry Hubs for more articles, courses and events relevant to your Continuing Professional Development requirements.